St. John has the most rewarding hiking in the Virgin Islands. The terrain ranges from arid and dry (in the east) to moist and semitropical (in the northwest). The island boasts more than 800 species of plants, 160 species of birds, and more than 20 trails maintained in fine form by the island's crew of park rangers. Much of the land on the island is designated as the Virgin Islands National Park. Visitors are encouraged to stop by the Cruz Bay Visitor Center, where you can pick up the park brochure, and the Virgin Islands National Park News, which has the latest information on park activities. Note: Don't forget to carry a lot of water and wear sunscreen and insect repellent when you hike.

St. John is laced with a wide choice of clearly marked walking paths. At least 20 of these originate from North Shore Road (Route 20) or from the island's main east-west artery, Centerline Road (Route 10). Each is marked at its starting point with a preplanned itinerary; the walks can last anywhere from 10 minutes to 2 hours. Maps are available from the national park headquarters at Cruz Bay.

One of our favorite hikes, the Annaberg Historic Trail (identified by the National Park Service as trail no. 10) requires only about a quarter-mile stroll. It departs from a clearly marked point along the island's north coast, near the junction of Routes 10 and 20. This self-guided tour passes the partially restored ruins of a manor house built during the 1700s. Signs along the way give historical and botanical data. Visiting the ruins costs $4 per person for those over age 16. If you want to prolong your hiking experience, take the Leinster Bay Trail (trail no. 11), which begins near the point where trail no. 10 ends. It leads past mangrove swamps and coral inlets rich with plant and marine life; markers identify some of the plants and animals.

Near the beach at Cinnamon Bay, there's a marked nature trail, with signs identifying the flora. It's a relatively flat, 1.2-mile walk through a tropical forest, eventually leading straight up to Centerline Road.

Another series of hikes traversing the more arid eastern section of St. John originates at clearly marked points along the island's southeastern tip, off Route 107. Many of the trails wind through the grounds of 18th-century plantations, past ruined schoolhouses, rum distilleries, molasses factories, and great houses, many of which are covered with lush, encroaching vines and trees.

The National Park Service (tel. 340/776-6201) provides a number of ranger-led activities. One of the most popular is the guided 2 1/2-mile Reef Bay Hike. Included is a stop at the only known petroglyphs on the island and a tour of the sugar-mill ruins. A park ranger discusses the area's natural and cultural history along the way. The hike starts at 10am on Monday, Thursday, and Friday and costs $15 per person. Reservations are required and can be made by phone.